OTD is the largest full-line supplier of Wood and MDF trim and moulding in Orillia.
Pine, oak, poplar, mahogany, maple, cedar mouldings.
Tip: Installing Crown Moulding
Installing any type of trim and moulding has its challenges and rewards. Prior to installing your crown moulding it is best to go around the room and put a pencil or chalk line along the wall where the bottom of the moulding will touch the wall. This distance, measured from the ceiling down on the wall is what we consider the height of the moulding and is dependant on the size of the crown moulding installed. You will likely install the moulding slightly higher or lower as you go along if you do not have a mark on the wall as a guide.
It is usually best to put an adhesive (PL Premium, etc.) on both edges of the moulding and on the joint between each piece of crown moulding. This will assist in holding the crown moulding up during installation. It will also prevent the moulding from separating down the road.
A change in temperature from summer to winter and back will cause your walls to expand and contract so if you don't put adhesive between the seams you will begin to see ugly gaps between each piece of trim and moulding. First, apply a continuous bead of adhesive on the moulding, and then put it up in place on the wall. Using a finish nail gun to hold crown moulding snug to the wall and then finally wipe off any excess adhesive that might ooze out.
When you are joining two pieces of moulding along a straight part of a wall you can either do a butt joint or a mitred joint. With wood crown moulding there tends to be slight variations in thickness of the pieces so it is customary to do a mitred joint to make a smooth transition. MDF or vinyl crown trim and moulding are typically uniform in thickness so you can use a simpler butt joint.
Mitred joints of trim and moulding are an art unto their own and not covered herein. When creating a butt joint you are just joining the two pieces of crown moulding together at a zero degree angle. To create a butt joint, first piece remove 1/8" off of the ends of both moulding pieces with a mitre saw to create a clean, smooth end. If it will be going into a corner leave the length of the crown moulding about 1/16" longer than needed so it will apply pressure into the joint. Make sure you use a good adhesive between the joints to prevent it from ever separating during seasonal temperature and humidity changes.
Use a lightweight spackling like DAP DryDex to effectively hide any nail holes. Note that the caulk will shrink slightly when it dries and you will see little dimples when the caulking dries. A slight sanding will smooth these out before painting.
Once painted you would have to strain your eyes to ever find the seams or nail holes.
There are advantages and disadvantages of painting before or after installation of any trim and moulding. Painting the trim and moulding in advance goes very quickly. But, after you install any trim and moulding, there will be spots like the nail holes, the seams and the corners where you will have to touch up the paint.
If you want wait until after you install the trim and moulding to paint, then you will have a be up and down the ladder and you will have to tape of your ceiling and wall if it is not yet painted.
Caulking Tip: Most walls and ceilings are never perfectly straight. You can however camouflage these imperfections, as well as any small mistakes you may have made, with a simple bead of caulk on the trim and moulding. On all the joint seams, as well as the seam between the trim and moulding and your walls, use caulk to fill in the gaps such as DAP silicone caulk. This will make a big difference in the finished appearance of your trim and moulding.